Not many people know this, but Captain ILL used to be a surfer dude back in the early eighties before he heard the call of Justice. He'd get up before dawn each morning and head down to the beach where he'd spend the day searching for the gnarliest waves he could find. He was a goofy-footed surfer so he took a lot of ribbing from the kooks, but he finally had to give it up when he nearly died after getting caught in a shorepound. Unfortunately, there are no pictures of Captain ILL in Surfing Photographs From the Seventies Taken By Jeff Divine since that was before his time. Even so, there are some really awesome pictures of a bunch of tubular waves in this book, so you might want to check it out anyway.
Polystichum?
Monday, July 14, 2008
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6 comments:
Duuuuude!
No way, Captain ILL. I myself was a surfer chick shortly before the dawn of time. Possibly I am in this book? Does it have pictures of any surfing pre-humanoids?
Polystichum, I have posted a photo of the only female in the book. Is this you?
Nice! Oops. Did I say that or think that?
hey ferny? did we find the right pic? it was the only chica in the whole thing, so we thought that must be the one...
Well, it was a very long time ago...but, yeah, I'm sure I looked just like that in my surfing days.
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